Few places compare to the city of Matera in Italy. Honey-hued limestone churches and ancient buildings line the labyrinthine streets that snake across this hilltop metropolis like an Escher painting. It’s the third oldest city in the world, and home to the Sassi, a honeycomb network of 1,500 ancient cave houses which still house local residents today.
James Bond fans will recognize the twisting streets from the 2021 movie No Time to Die, especially the infamous Aston Martin DB5 car chase scene.
However, Matera hasn’t always been seen as a jewel in southern Italy’s crown. In the early 20th century, the population was decimated by poverty and disease, leaving it almost abandoned. Thankfully, it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, and since then its reputation has grown as a fascinating tourist destination.
Read on to discover the best places to eat, drink, and sleep in Matera.
Image Credit: Getty Images, Vasilis Tsikkinis. Image Location: Matera, Italy
Where is Matera in Italy?
Picture Italy as a boot. Matera is just above the heel in the Basilicata region, near Puglia. It’s the capital of the province of Matera, as well as being a city in its own right. Bari is the closest major city with an international airport, which you can easily access by bus or train.
Is Matera, Italy worth visiting?
Absolutely. History buffs will love exploring (and staying inside) the ancient cave houses, as well as learning about the city’s rich heritage. Even if historical sites aren’t your jam, Matera is undeniably pretty. Enjoy wandering the winding streets, dig into delectable Italian food, and admire the sunset over the rooftops with an aperol spritz in hand.
What are the top things to do in Matera, Italy?
Start your day with an early wander around Mercato Centrale, Matera’s Italian food market (open daily except Sundays) on Via Ascanio Persio. Peruse stalls packed with fat wheels of cheese, salty cured meat and a kaleidoscopic array of fresh fruit and vegetables, followed by a cappuccino at nearby Ambaraba.
Next, visit the famous cave houses in the Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso neighborhoods. Casa Noha, a multimedia exhibition space, is a great place to start; while you're there, make sure to watch their 25-minute film which explains the engrossing (and tragic) history behind the rock-hewn residences.
Image Credit: Getty Images, Michele D'Amico supersky77. Image Location: Matera, Italy
Nearby, you’ll find the Chiesa di Santa Maria De Idris, an impressive church carved into the rock atop its own hill. Inside, centuries-old frescoes adorn the walls, dating back to the 12th century; or delve underground at Palombaro Lungo, a 16th century cistern designed to hold 1.3 million gallons of drinking water. Walk along the metal bridges that are suspended over the illuminated water.
Nightfall is when Matera really comes into its own. As the sun sets, the limestone buildings are bathed in an amber glow, which is best viewed from the Zipa Cafe. Their cocktails are second to none; try the zesty Zi-panch, made with dark rum and nutmeg.
Which are the best restaurants in Matera, Italy?
Unlike other Italian cities, Matera doesn’t have a slew of long-standing restaurants, as a result of its poverty-stricken past. However, in 2019, the city became the European Capital of Culture, which led to dozens of new eateries opening up.
Image Credit: Getty Images, Vito Cangiulli. Image Location: Matera, Italy
Head to La Lopa if you’re looking for unbeatable house-made pasta. Try the cavatelli with Lucanian cod, cherry tomatoes, and black olives.
Or, for something more avant-garde, reserve a table at Ego. Deer raviolini and watermelon-topped scallops are among the inventive dishes here.
Alternatively, book a table at Osteria MateraMì, where they serve simple, budget-friendly food, including slow-roasted lamb and fresh troccoli pasta with eggplant and sausage.
Which hotels are worth staying at in Matera, Italy?
You can’t visit Matera without staying in a cave hotel — at least for one night. Sextantio le Grotte della Civita is the epitome of rustic luxury. Think white linen-topped beds underneath arched stone ceilings, candlelit alcoves and freestanding tubs sunk into the rock floor.
And, in case you’re wondering which hotel James Bond stayed in Matera during No Time to Die, it’s the luxurious Palazzo Gattini, a five-star boutique hotel with just 20 rooms, a soothing spa, and rooftop restaurant.
Image Credit: Getty Images, Poppy Hollis. Image Location: Matera, Italy
What is the best way to get to Matera?
Train or bus are the best ways to get to Matera, as the city does not allow cars through its center. Trains depart from Bari to Matera Centrale (a 1h 49 min journey) every hour with one change in Altamura.
There’s also regular direct bus service between Bari’s international airport and Matera, leaving hourly during the day (journeys range from 55 min to 1h 15 min).
Ready for your next Italian adventure? Book with Trainline now for the cheapest train and bus tickets, as well as minute-by-minute service updates. Arrivederci!
Header Image Credit: Getty Images, Filippo Maria Bianchi. Image Location: Matera, Italy
